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the hip German city you’d never thought to visit

Let’s be honest, Mannheim is on no one’s list of must-visit European cities – but it has all the key ingredients of a gemütlich weekend break: a slowly expanding selection of boutique hotels, Instagrammable sights, a hipster neighbourhood, and – the clincher – a jaw-dropping new look for the Kunsthalle. Its century-old gallery of modern and contemporary art occupies an entire block and last summer was given a major overhaul. 

Sure, the city lost its looks during the war. Time was when Mannheim, a youthful and multicultural university town in south-western Germany, was an…

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